Plasters and asprin.
I soon found out that many of the 'over the counter' cures sold in England were only available at chemistsin the Netherlands. I say soon I had searched every supermarket I knew for paracetamol before someone told me where I was going wrong. Then on arriving at the chemists on a very busy morning I found that it was all behind the counter and Id have to ask for what I wanted . Oh dear more red faces.
It was Ryan who really got us introduced to the health system though. I have no idea why but Ryan was always accident prone, if there was a hole he would fall down it, stairs were a nightmare and even when my mum took him to the park and warned him to be careful near the pond he immedietly turned round and fell in.
Not suprising then that his first accident landed him in hospital. James had already crashed the bike into the headmasters car but had done no damage to himself Ryan was riding the same bike when he hit a post, the handlebars twisted and cut him badly . We had to rush him to the hospital and he needed stitches. The doctor at the hospital told us that he had been very lucky, if the handlebars had cut a bit deeper or a fraction to one side Ryan could have bled to death.
A few weeks later the old paper container arrived in the square. It was one of those big ships containers and of course all the kids climbed on it even though they had been told not to.
It was Ryan who fell, leaving a graze from under his navel to his collarbone where his body had skimmed the side of the container his stomach just grazing the big steel latch that locked the door. If the lock had been in the open position he would have disemboweled himself.
Then one afternoon I was at home playing with Abigail and thinking about starting tea when the doorbell rang, it was that frantic constant ringing the sort that you know isnt good news. I went to the door Abby at my heels to see about 15 small children outside the door. As I opened the door they all started talking at once and I could tell by thier faces that something was wrong but I couldnt understand what they were saying . Then I caught Ryans name and the word school "yes Ryan " I said There was just a moments silence and then a chorus of small voices said "yes Ryan blood BLOOD' and one child held out his hand to say I should go with him. I didnt need any further coaxing, with Abby one one arm and keys in the other hand I followed the group of children across the square to the school.
Ryan was laying flat on his back next to the slide another boy stood looking after him holding a tissue on Ryans face which was very bloody. I scooped him up and rushed across to the doctors surgery where his nose was cleaned checked and steri-stripped back together. Ryan was recovered enough to want to play outside after dinner and after a few days the strips came off the black eye faded and all that was left was a very faint scar.
It was at about this time that I had to start dying my hair in order to hide the grey!
Back to school
September was approaching fast and I knew that I had to knuckle down and learn the language. So far I’d managed about three whole words of Dutch.
That just wasn’t on I couldn’t carry on as if I was one long holiday. I knew I would have to learn Dutch somehow. The answer came via a chance meeting that the boys had while swimming.
They came home one afternoon after being off swimming with Marcel and told me that they had met some other English-speaking children at the pool. “They live just round the corner and we are going to play with them tomorrow ” they told me
They explained to me that although the children spoke English it was funny English “ funny how”? I asked but they couldn’t explain the accent. “Was it like people on TV”? I asked thinking maybe they were Americans. No that wasn’t it. Australian then like on neighbours? No that wasn’t it either.
I was at a loss about where their new friends might be from and left them to go and play.
The following day the boys came home and said that their friend’s mother had asked if it would be ok if she came to call.
That was a funny way to put it I thought, coming to call? But nosiness got the better of me and I said, “of course she can I’d love to meet her” When Beverly turned up on my doorstep the strange phrasing and funny accent fell into place. She was white South African and how!
Her favourite phrase was “you know what you should do”? Followed by the 'Word' according to Beverly.
She did know of a school where they did Dutch lessons for non-Dutch women in a local church hall though.
We went along and I signed in for classes, which were on Monday and Wednesday morning 9.15 –11.45. So that we all had time to drop older kids off at school before the lessons started and time to get to school again by 12 to pick them up.
Coffee and biscuits were included in the price of 50 guilders a year (about 13 pounds) This was great, the only drawback being that Beverly now seemed to think I was part of her brood and needed her guidance and warnings of all things bad.
Abby was by now nearly reaching the terrible two stage and liked to touch everything, one afternoon Beverly was there having called round to tell me there was a special offer on chicken at one of the shops. “You know what you should do”? “Get round there and stock up for a few weeks” she advised.
Abby pulled at one of the pot plants plucking off one of the leaves “ Oh naughty “ I said putting on my stern face.
“You know what you should do”? said the familiar voice “Stick her with a sharp fork in her hand , I did it to my kids they never touched anything again”
I bet they didn’t but it wasn’t advice that I had any intention of following.
Not wanting to be rude I put up with Beverly for far longer than I should have. After all I reasoned she couldn’t help the way she was bought up maybe she didn’t know any better.
Peter was far more direct; he didn’t like her and told her so. As a result Beverly made a point of never being around if he was home but continued to pop in when he was at work and give me unwanted advice.
Most of it was awful and racist and I wont even justify it by writing any of it here but theres just one incident which goes to show how her mind worked.
Beverly had been into hospital for a hysterectomy and on coming home was told to rest. A home help came in and did all the housework and cooked a warm meal for the family in the evening.
I went round to visit one afternoon and she lay on the sofa like some regal lady of leisure while the nice young lady from home help did laundry. We drank tea and Beverly told me how awful she felt about this woman working so hard, cleaning and fetching and carrying for her family while she did nothing.
But I said, ” you should be used to it. After all you had servants in South Africa”
“ Yes “ she said in matter of fact voice “ but they were black”
The boys setteld into the school on the corner and I had started Dutch lessons twice a week.
We learned how to introduce ourselves and to tell everyone how old we were and where we came from.
The boys were learning fast too. They would come home and say guess what we learned today and reel off a list of words Peter and I could only nod and “say well done boys” we had no idea what they were saying.
Then one day they came home with mischief in mind.
They waited until dinnertime so I know it was deliberate. Peter sat down and before we could start they chimed up “ dad” “ do you know what a fuck is” It was at that moment that the boys learned what a clip round the ear is.
They were surprised at just how fast dad could move and nursed sore ears as they explained they meant a desk drawer (vak). Peter apologised but I know they meant it exactly as it sounded.
They had started out in the class for 5 year olds but kids being kids and having no fear of making a mistake or failing they embraced the new language with all the gusto of learning a new computer game. By Christmas I was called to the school and told they would be going into a new class after the Christmas break. One with children of their own age group It had taken my boys just 3 months to get to grips with this new language and I was still saying “ how do you do my name is Debbie”. Life’s not fair.
Even now I’m often told sympathetically that Dutch is a hard language to learn. I take that as meaning I’ve made a cock up and the person is too polite to tell me so.
But in the beginning I thought how hard can it be? Well let’s see begin with the basics A-B-C easy right?
Not in Dutch.
A= ah B=bay C=say D= day E=a I=e IJ =i but Y is also i and TZ= ch ! I couldn’t even read place names, just try asking for directions to Tzumarrum, or Dronrijp it was a nightmare.
The school group I joined was for women only whilst Peter went to an evening class that was mixed.
The reason for the women only group was two fold firstly we could study while the older children were at school and the younger ones stayed downstairs in a crèche. Secondly lots of the women were Moslems and so were not allowed to be alone with strange men. All the teachers were women and it was a fun friendly group from all over the world mixed ages and backgrounds. We had one thing in common though, I took a poll one morning during the coffee break and found that regardless of religion, race or background all men wear their socks to bed! It was a good ice –breaker.
One of the ladies was from Bosnia and spoke only odd words of Dutch so with the few words we both knew and a good dose of sign language I asked her how long she had been in the Netherlands. She paused to think and then held up her fingers to indicate the number of years 22. My heart sank. Bloody hell I thought, people had warned me that it was difficult thing learning Dutch but 22 years?
Luckily she was the exception most of the women had only been here for 3 or 4 years and the Dutch classes hadn’t long been set up when I arrived.
If you were to go now it would be a much more high tech experience or so I’ve heard all computers and such but we made do with what we had.
Which is how we ended up in the hall standing in a circle like 3 year olds at nursery school singing “ hoofd, schouder, knie en teen “ head, shoulders, knees and toes”! We played pretend games like ordering food from the chip shop or granny went to market. We learned the day to day stuff to help us live in our new country without making complete fools of ourselves all the time or at least that was the idea.
Maybe I have a secret wish to make a fool of myself or maybe I just try to do too much too soon.
I’d learned about how to ring the bell at the back of the supermarket when I had empty bottles to return because glass and plastic bottles have deposits on them just like when I was a kid in England. So you would ring the bell and one of the assistants would open a hatch count you bottles and give you a receipt for the returned bottles that you handed in at the till.
I now remembered to save all the paper and advertising folders that came through the door in the shed until the end of the month when a container would arrive in the square and everyone would troop across with their paper ready to be sent for re-cycling.
I’d even figured out the fruit and veg set up at the supermarket. The first time I’d gone in I’d put my fruit into a bag and then seeing one of those scales with the ticket printer in it thought that there must be somebody around to weigh the goods for you and stick a price label on. I waited around but couldn’t see anyone. Then to my amazement a couple of Dutch ladies came in selected their fruit weighed it and stuck the labels on it themselves.
I followed suit fully expecting someone to stop me and ask just what I thought I was doing but nothing, no checking it at the till or anything. They trust you not to stick the price on and then add a couple of apples to the bag!
Armed with my new confidence at my skill in speaking Dutch I went to the greengrocer where the fruit and veg was much cheaper than the supermarket but of course I would have to stand in a shop full of people and ask for what I wanted.
It started well enough “ one pound of tomatoes” “ one lettuce” “ one cucumber” I felt quite proud as the salad took shape on the counter in front of me. No one was laughing or tutting that I was taking too long, but then I needed celery.
I couldn’t remember the name and worse still I couldn’t see any to point at.
I would just have to describe it I thought so I smiled at the young man behind the counter and took a deep breath.
“ I would like” I paused “ one of those long white things, with green bits on the top, very crunchy”. I said hoping he might grasp what I meant.
“Oh” he said in perfect English “ you mean celery, sorry love we haven’t got any in today”
“ You speak English, “ I said as if he had committed some kind of crime by not telling me until now.
“Yes” he said “ but you were doing so well I didn’t like to interrupt”!
I spent the first six months thinking that no-one in Harlingen was married. It is still the custom in the Netherlands to have a little name plate on the wall outside your house and as I walked with Abby or the dog I would read the names on the houses we passed. S Huzinga and J Bloemstra , G de Vries and L Wierstra ect ect, Gerard and his wife had one but they also had two different names on the plaque. It wasnt until we started talking about surnames at school that I learned that most Dutch women keep thier maiden names even after they are married. This does lead to confusion. You phone little Jimmys mum to ask if he can stay to tea and instead of Mrs Brown ( jimmys last name) you get Mrs Smith on the phone !
I have spent the last 15 years trying to explain that I dont use my maiden name and why its so unusual for English women to do so. Even now I get official letters adressed to Mvr Allen- Allen because they are determined that I must have a second surname.
There were some things we didn’t learn about at school, one of which was St Martin. On Nov 11 the children take to the streets carrying lanterns which until recently were always home made and lit by a candle and they knock at the houses and sing. In return for which they get sweets. Now having two boys at school I’d heard about this and must admit that at first I was really worried about the idea of primary school children roaming the streets on a November evening knocking on doors asking for sweets. I asked Amelia and she assured me it was normal good fun and very safe. The boys would walk with a group of friends she explained.
Knowing roughly what to expect I made sure I had some lollipops and toffees in a bowl by the door but even then I was shocked by the number of children out and about all singing and waving their lanterns.
I must say it was all good natured and still is, no child expects more than a sweet or a satsuma in their bag and they all remember to say thank you.
When I hear some of the things kids in England get up to while trick or treating my stomach turns I hope it never gets like that here.
Arriving at school on Monday I found that some people had not been so prepared for the celebrations as I had been. One woman who was from Vietnam seemed very stressed by the whole event. In a mix of broken English and Dutch she explained
“ Door ring” she said ‘children sing and I give sweet I give and give I not got no more sweet, but children come and come and sing. I give apple but then no more apple. Still children come and sing so I go bed I turn out light I go hide under blanket.” She just didn’t understand why everyone else was laughing so much.
